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20 pledges for 2020: It’s only February and going flight-free is already causing me serious FOMO



“A new luxury resort just opened in Tanzania!”

“Hi Helen, fancy checking out the ski scene in Uzbekistan?”

“Costa Rica wants to welcome you in 2020, Ms Coffey.”

And so it begins. Regret. Frustration. And the most acute form of FOMO I’ve ever experienced.

I’m only five minutes into my year of no-flying and already I’m wondering if I’ve made a huge mistake. I don’t know whether travel companies are secretly trolling me or if I’m only noticing the onslaught of opportunities now because I’m forced to turn them all down – but every exciting long-haul destination I’ve ever dreamed of touching down in is inviting me on the trip of a lifetime. And I have to say, “No, thank you. Ask me again in 365 days?” to every single one.

Or maybe I don’t. I start frantically entering searches into The Man in Seat 61, the pre-eminent train travel site that tells you, in painstaking detail, how to work the tracks all the way from London to Vladivostok (and everywhere else in between). OK, east Africa and Central America are temporarily out, but what about Uzbekistan? Surely a two-day hop?  

Hmm, not quite. (Considering I’m a travel writer, geography’s never been my strong suit.) First up it’s 48 hours onboard a comfortable sleeper train from Paris – so far, so good – and then…Oh. Then three nights on the service from Moscow to Uzbekistan’s capital Tashkent, before even getting to the mountains. That’s around five days spent on trains on the outbound journey – so 10 days round trip, then. Plus the three days or so I would actually want to spend skiing.


Right. It’s possible, yes – but suddenly I’m looking down the barrel of a fortnight out of the office (sure to go down well) and at least eight nights sleeping on trains. I feel a bit overwhelmed just thinking about it. That’s before even tackling the issue of expense: first the Eurostar to Paris, at a minimum of £58 return; then Paris to Moscow, priced at €313 (£266) one-way, €626 (£532) return; and, finally, Moscow to Tashkent, from around £130 one-way (third-class, of course), or £260 return. That’s – oh boy – £850. Without adding on the exorbitant price of a Russian transit visa (£101), which is sadistically time-consuming and complicated to fill out. 

All that, for three days of skiing.

It’s an eye-opening exercise. Buoyed up by the romance of the idea of roaming the rails, exchanging life stories with my fellow sultry European passengers a la Before Sunrise while my hair blows softly in the breeze, I sort of forgot to factor in the reality of my flight-free year ahead. A year in which I am effectively and permanently grounded. Every trip I take will be a trade-off between time, money and distance. Every excursion will require immense planning, from wading through rail websites in different languages to ensuring I make connections and figuring out how to get online while on the move.

Somehow I’d convinced myself that, because it was new and exciting, it would also be easy. Not so much, as it turns out.

But being slapped with the real-life ramifications also helps focus the mind a bit. Alright, the ’Stans might be a stretch – so maybe closer to home is the way to kick things off? I’ve always wanted to see the Scottish Highlands; and the newly revamped Caledonian Sleeper service can whizz me there from London overnight for £45 one-way. I keep hearing about how the Spanish coastal city of Valencia’s gastronomy scene is on the up; turns out I can get there for just under £100 and in under 24 hours. And Rijeka in Croatia is a European Capital of Culture for 2020; the journey involves one overnight stop in Munich, arriving by evening the next day, all for around £107 each way.

Yes, flying would be cheaper and quicker – but not flying is doable. More than that, there’s something genuinely thrilling about it, in a way there isn’t when blandly entering your bank details into the easyJet website. Researching potential journeys (which in truth feel more like adventures), I sense something a little like butterflies flitting around my gut. Because, let’s face it, there’s nothing that racy about jumping on the Gatwick Express, getting herded onto a winged metal box and being spat out of a faceless airport some hours later. But spending two days traversing five countries on four trains? That’s something to write home about.



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Where to go on holiday in April


Looking for an Easter break? There’s still some snow time to be enjoyed in the Alps, just as European city breaks are warming up. Or discover under-the-radar spots in South America and the Far East, which unfurl their most impressive scenery this month. 

The Independent’s hotel recommendations are unbiased, independent advice you can trust. On some occasions, we earn revenue if you click the links and book, but we never allow this to affect our coverage.

Bolivia

Bolivia’s famous salt flats become dazzling mirrors in April, as the last of the seasonal rains settle across the landscape. Besides surveying the other-worldly crystalline mounds of Uyuni, the largest salt flat on Earth, Bolivia thrills with smoking volcanoes, flamingo-filled lagoons and surreal deserts where the stones resemble trees. It’s best taken in on a roaming 4×4 adventure tour. An Abercrombie & Kent 10-day tailor-made Lake Titicaca and Uyuni trip takes in the highlights, from $4,295 per person. But whether you go it alone or take a guide, chances are your flight lands in La Paz, the sky-high city (a whopping 3,640m above sea level), where increasingly cool fine-dining and design hotel scenes mean it’s worth lingering in town for a few days. Check into art-filled, parallelogram-shaped property Atix (rooms from £132) and try the llama tartare at Noma alumnus Claus Meyer’s restaurant, Gustu. After soaking up the capital’s thronging squares you’ll need to catch your breath with a cortado among the vintage typewriters at The Writer’s Coffee.


The perfect reflections of the Uyuni salt flats (Getty/iStock)

Journey time: 18h 45m via Madrid

Average temperature in April: 14C 

Crete, Greece

Seek out some rays in Greece’s southernmost island. As Crete peels back its blue shutters for the season, you won’t have to elbow through the crowds (except for the Easter school holidays, of course) to visit Crete’s blockbuster ruins – most famous of which is the 4,000-year-old fresco-adorned Palace of Knossos – or the pink sands of Elafonisi beach. Newly refurbed Daios Cove Luxury Resort & Villas (rooms from €254) occupies prime position overlooking Mirabello Bay, with that all-important infinity pool and suntrap terrace – most rooms have private plunge pools, too. But don’t miss a visit to the island’s interior either, where the most authentic slice of Cretan village life is to be found. Here, it’s all languid tavernas serving homemade cheeses, vineyards and olive groves clinging to craggy hillsides, and walking trails threading through Samaria Gorge, just as the wildflowers are coming into bloom. 

Heraklion, the capital of the Greek island of Crete (iStock/Getty)

Journey time: 4h

Average temperature in April: 17C 

Zermatt, Switzerland

Yes, you can still ski in Europe after Easter – if you pick the location wisely. At 1,620m above sea level, car-free Zermatt is one of the highest resorts in the Alps, with runs open until the end of April (in fact, the glacier even means you can ski in summertime). Presided over by the soaring shark’s fin form of the Matterhorn, get ready for a glamorous après scene that sees ski bunnies swooshing between Papperla Pub and Z’Alt Hischi for mugs of steaming Gluhwein. For an even more impressive panorama, take a ride up the world’s highest-altitude 3S cable car – see if you can count all 14 glaciers and 38 mountain peaks. With 360km of pistes, keen skiers and boarders should be kept busy all week. As for where to rest those weary limbs after long days on the slopes, check out the Zermatt properties by new eco-friendly self-catering concept Lagom, which enables travellers to customise chalet services (whether you want housekeeping, toiletries, etc) and carbon-offset the booking.

Hit the heights for late-season skiing at Zermatt (Getty/iStock)

Journey time: 1h 40 (to Zurich)

Average temperature in April: 4C

South Korea 

Cherry blossom season isn’t exclusively Japanese: parks and gardens across South Korea are similarly tickled pink in springtime, and a host of festivals celebrate these beot-kkot in bloom. While Seoul’s five palaces are extremely pretty places to blossom-watch, how about heading to a more under-the-radar option such as Jinhae Gunhangje (1-10 April) in Gyeongsangnam-do? As well as its petal power, this southwestern province has plenty more secrets up its sleeve. For starters, there’s island-hopping by ferry to glorious beaches and time-capsule fishing villages, while inland awaits a lush landscape dotted with hot springs, temples and paddy fields. Oh, and this stretch of coast has some of the country’s best seafood: hold your nose and delve into Busan city’s enormous Jagalchi Market, where all sorts of scaly or tentacled creatures are hawked from rickety stalls; after buying your fish of choice head to the upstairs eatery where they’ll prepare it for you. That’s what we call fresh.

Sunset in Seoul (iStock)

Journey time: 11h

Average temperature in April: 4C

Porto, Portugal

From grandiose palaces to an ornate 75m bell tower, there’s nothing second-rate about Portugal’s second city, Porto. After the obligatory shots of the Rio Douro, crisscrossed by spectacular bridges, let your mind whisk back to medieval times as you wander the Ribeira district’s cobblestone streets, passing 15th-century churches, merchants’ houses and the former stock market, Palácio de Bolsa. Besides a few glasses of the city’s namesake fortified wine (there’s even a dedicated Port Wine Museum on the riverside), eating well comes easily in Porto, whether it’s lining up for the ultimate pork sandwich at Casa Guedes or sampling small plates of seafood at Tapabento. Need some holiday reading material? Lello Livraria is often called the world’s most beautiful bookstore, due to its Hogwarts-esque oak interiors and stained-glass ceiling. Continue the literary leanings by staying at Gallery Hostel (rooms from £54): rooms are named after local writers, and its free walking tours reveal the neighbourhood’s lively cultural scene. 

Journey time: 2h 20 

Average temperature in April: 13C 



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‘A crash was going to happen’: Two incidents by exact same airline at Istanbul airport increase concerns about flight security



The hard landings of two planes by the exact same airline at the same Istanbul airport in the area of a one month have elevated thoughts about aviation basic safety in Europe’s major city, a main transit hub for a great deal of Eurasia. 

On Wednesday, a Pegasus airways flight arriving at Istanbul’s Sabiha Gokcen airport slipped off the damp runway on landing, smashed into a wall, split into three parts and burst into flames, killing three travellers on board and injuring pretty much each individual other a single of the 179 of the crew associates and other people aboard the Boeing 737-800. 

The accident follows a 5 January incident in which yet another Pegasus airlines jet landing at the exact airport for the duration of a wet working day also slipped off the runaway. No travellers or crew were being harmed. 

Information of Wednesday’s crash dominated headlines and tv broadcasts across Turkey, with numerous pundits criticising the authorities and the privately owned airline. The crash temporarily shut down Istanbul’s selection two airport, situated on the Asian facet of the town.

The crash has prompted criticism about Turkey’s aviation insurance policies, one particular calendar year right after the country shut down the storied Ataturk Intercontinental Airport. In its spot it opened what it billed as the world’s greatest airport, together the Black Sea on the city’s northernmost edge – and in spite of the objections of some city scheduling and aviation gurus. 

“The state is like an out of manage teach,” former pilot Bahadir Altan advised professional-govt CNN Turk, just after the crash. “There should really be additional perception than just carrying out a person challenge immediately after the other.”

Among the all those killed was Zehra Bilgi Kocar, a young dentist whose partner was compelled to get a flight numerous days previously. 

“Everything happened in two or three seconds,” 36-12 months-old Yunus Elmaci, 1 of the passengers aboard the airplane, instructed the DHA information agency, as he recovered from his accidents. 

The accidents at Sabiha Gokcen come amid promises that the authorities is neglecting the airport in favour of the newly developed Istanbul Worldwide Airport, which is the hub of the country’s flagship provider Turkish Airlines.

CEO of Pegasus Airlines Mehmet Nane reacts as he speaks throughout a press convention on Thursday (AFP by way of Getty Pictures)

Expansion do the job at Sabiha Gokcen, which some aviation specialists say is underutilised, has stalled as the new airport on the city’s European aspect struggles amid an economic downturn to retain ample website traffic to spend off the mega-contractors who crafted and function the facility.

But many others alleged that uncomplicated incompetence at the airport by the pilots may perhaps have led to the most up-to-date crash. Retired pilot Kazim Dikici, speaking on privately owned NTV television explained the Pegasus jet should have by no means been accepted to land as tailwind speeds experienced attained 25 knots,  

“At this position the procedure should be stopped and planes really should be advised that people who have gasoline need to wait around and these who you should not need to divert to alternate airfields,” he said, noting that two planes experienced aborted landings just right before the accident. 

“If I was in the tower, I would have produced that airplane abort its landing and prepare its landing at another runway,” previous air visitors controller Ibrahim Ozcan claimed in a tv interview.

“It was a error to leave it to the pilot,” Mr Ozcan said. “It was obvious a crash was going to materialize.”

Publicly traded Pegasus, Turkey’s selection two airline, operates nearly 82 planes and emphasises no-frills flights throughout Turkey, the Center East and Europe, including to London’s Stansted airport. Passengers frequently spend further for meals and checked-in luggage, even though flight attendants and other crew normally complain about lower wages. At a press convention on Wednesday, Pegasus CEO Mehmet Nane was visibly shaken, tearing up as he spoke, but declining to just take any thoughts. 

“It is not simple to arrive below,” he claimed, in accordance to a transcript of his geared up statement. “We will do whatever it can take to recover the wounds. This procedure is a difficult method for us, the households of individuals who missing their life.”

He denied that the pilots took a possibility by landing the flight. “If our pilots see chance, it is stated by rules that they pass or be directed to other airports,” he mentioned.  

The earlier incident in January, involving a Boeing 747 arriving from Sharjah, also took spot in the course of rough climate. 

“I have hardly ever viewed a storm like this in quite a few several years,” one person on the social media channel Eksi Sozluk wrote at the time. “The auto was shuddering right to left and shifting lanes. Driving is very perilous and trees are becoming knocked down.”

And a 13 January 2018 Pegasus airways flight skidded off a wet runway runway although landing at the airport in the Black Sea city of Trabzon. No a single aboard the Boeing 737-800 was hurt, even though the aircraft sustained significant harm.



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What is HS2, when will it be completed and how much will it cost?



High Speed 2 (HS2) is expected to be given the green light today by Boris Johnson, despite concerns about rising costs.

The prime minister will set out his response to the Oakervee Review in an announcement to parliament and is expected to give his final approval to the first stretch, linking London to Birmingham.

Here are the key questions and answers around the project.

What is HS2 (and for that matter, what is HS1)?

High Speed 1 is the 68-mile fast railway line from London St Pancras to the Channel Tunnel at Folkestone in Kent, which opened in 2008.


High Speed 2 is a much more ambitious rail project, involving 345 miles of new high-speed track.

Phase one involves building a line from London Euston via Old Oak Common in west London via Birmingham Interchange (near Solihull and the airport) to Curzon Street station in central Birmingham. The latest proposal is to add an extension northwest to Crewe to the first stage, allowing Liverpool and Glasgow to be served by high-speed trains from the outset.

The second part of the project is a Y-shaped extension with one branch going to Manchester (via Manchester airport) and the other to Leeds via an “East Midlands hub”. The latter branch will also serve Sheffield and provide connections to the existing East Coast main line to York and Newcastle.

HS2 was announced by Labour’s last transport secretary, Lord Adonis, in 2009, and has been supported by the main political parties ever since.

Why is it needed?

When the plan was first unveiled, the arguments were focused on cutting journey times. But the real reason is to provide much-needed extra capacity. The existing West Coast main line is the busiest inter-city route in Europe, handling a mix of Avanti express services, commuter trains and freight. There is no room for expansion, and the system has little resilience.

By removing the express passenger trains to the West Midlands, northwest England and Scotland, pressure on the existing West Coast line will be relieved – allowing services between towns and cities such as Milton Keynes, Rugby and Coventry to be improved.

The East Coast main line will also be freed up with express trains to York and Newcastle routed via HS2, providing more capacity between Hull, Doncaster, Peterborough and London.

How fast will trains go – and how much quicker will journeys be?

The maximum speed is expected to be 225mph (360 km/h), which is 100mph more than the current top speed on the East and West Coast main lines.

Journey times from London to Birmingham, Manchester and Leeds will be almost halved, while links north from Birmingham will save a greater proportion of time due to poorer links at present.

Trains between London and Scotland will be about an hour faster.

These are the key target times published by HS2, compared with actual fastest times for corresponding journeys today: 

London-Birmingham: 45 minutes (81 minutes)

London-Manchester: 67 minutes (125 minutes)

London-Leeds: 81 minutes (133 minutes)

Birmingham-Manchester: 40 minutes (87 minutes)

Birmingham-Leeds: 46 minutes (117 minutes)

When will it be ready?

Phase one was due to be open in 2026. But in 2016, the National Audit Office reported that the planned opening date was at risk, noting that HS2 Ltd had missed one third of its own planning and development milestones.

The current expectation is for a token service of three trains an hour between Old Oak Common and Birmingham Curzon Street starting some time between 2029 and 2033, with 10 trains an hour from Euston between 2031 and 2036. That assumes that work begins by March 2020.

The complete HS2 network is unlikely to be ready until 2040.

How many people will use it?

HS2 is predicted to carry 100 million passenger a year when it is completed – though the Stop HS2 pressure group says: “Passenger forecasts have simply been invented for no other purpose than to try and justify the building of HS2, with it being suggested that HS2 would carry more passengers than all current inter-city services on the East Coast, West Coast and Midland main lines combined, despite the fact that HS2 would stop at far fewer stations.”

How much will it cost to build?

Who knows? Around £9bn has been spent on preparation work. Currently £56 billion (in 2015 prices) is allocated to the project, but the Department for Transport (DfT) now estimates the final bill will be between £65 billion and £88 billion. One scenario suggests that the final cost could be as high as £106bn – 89 per cent higher than originally planned.

How much will tickets cost?

There is likely to be a premium of between 20 and 33 per cent for using the fast service. That would in theory push the cost of a London-Manchester Anytime ticket from £180 to £240 at 2020 prices, which works out at 6p per second. But at the same time as HS2 is being built, the government has pledged to carry out fare reform.

Who’s against HS2?

The project has many opponents, starting with those who reside near the planned line and say their lives will be blighted. 

Environmentalists say the proposed line jeopardises 693 classified local wildlife sites, 21 designated local nature reserves, 33 sites of special scientific interest, five wildlife refuges of international importance and 108 ancient woodlands. The Green Party calls it “an act of ecocide”.

Opposition is being coordinated by the Stop HS2 group, which says: “Far from being a magic wand to cure the North-South divide, HS2 would simply reinforce the economic dominance of London.

“HS2 is forecast to be a net carbon contributor 120 years into the future, according to the official forecasts from HS2 Ltd themselves.

“Far from being intended to take flights out of the air, HS2 is being actively lobbied for by at least four major airports which see it as essential to their expansion plans.”

Some supporters of the basic premise argue that the plans have been badly thought through. They point out that Birmingham already has three disconnected city-centre railway stations – New Street, Snow Hill or Moor Street stations – and that Curzon Street will add a fourth, with no easy connections to existing train services.

The London terminus is half a mile from London St Pancras – terminus for Eurostar to Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam as well as an important hub for trains to southeast England. That does not provide a good connection.

HS2 does not serve London Heathrow, the busiest airport in Britain, and even though it cuts beneath East Midlands airport there is no station to link with it.

What is HS2?

Could plans change?

Certainly, in two main ways. The project could be “descoped”, reducing cost by downgrading the specification. For example if the present 18 trains per hour target is reduced to 14, billions could be saved.

The second phase of the project also has scope for savings, for example by relying more on existing lines rather than new tracks. But that would be strongly opposed by proponents in the Midlands and North of England who say that brand new infrastructure is needed. 

Is HS2 the right solution to mid-21st century mobility?

No one knows for sure. Sir Richard Branson and Elon Musk are working on competing Hyperloop systems, in which pods are propelled through vacuum tubes at up to 600mph.

Others say that a revolution in autonomous vehicles will allow far more capacity and speed to be extracted from the UK’s existing motorway network.

But at present the UK is lagging way behind France, Germany, Spain and Italy in its rail network, and HS2 is one way to start catching up. One reason Avanti (a consortium involving the Italian state railway) was given the West Coast main line franchise was because of its expertise in running high-speed trains. 



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Paris Charles de Gaulle to overtake Heathrow as Europe’s top airport



Paris Charles de Gaulle is set to eclipse Heathrow airport as Europe’s leading aviation hub within 18 months, The Independent has calculated.

The airport in the French capital has four runways, compared with two at Heathrow.

In 2019, Paris CDG grew by around 5 per cent to 76.15 million passengers. Heathrow’s growth was 1 per cent, to 80.9 million.

The Independent calculates that, if those rates of growth are sustained, Paris CDG will handle 80 million passengers this year, compared with 81.7 million for Heathrow.


The rolling annual totals for both airports, assuming constant growth, would be equal at 82.3 million at the end of July 2021. After that, Charles de Gaulle airport would move ahead.

Predictions may well be confounded by the sharp decline in traffic between Europe and China because of the coronavirus outbreak.

Five years ago, the Davies Commission on airport expansion in southeast England unanimously recommended a third runway at Heathrow. The plan was backed by government and parliament. But the project has lost momentum.

The planned opening date of 2026 has been missed, and – if it goes ahead – the new northwestern runway may not open until the very end of the 2020s.

Heathrow’s chief executive, John Holland-Kaye, said: “If we are to be a truly global Britain, we need to be better connected to global markets than our rivals in Europe.

“It would be an economic disaster for the country to fall behind, just as we leave the EU. Heathrow’s new runway will make the UK a winner, connecting all of Britain to global growth and that’s why we need to get on with delivering it.”

Heathrow has reported a record January, with 2.9 per cent more passengers than a year earlier.

There was a spike in domestic flights, largely attributed to the Flybe link with Newquay in Cornwall than began in March 2019.

The airline has announced it will end the Heathrow route in March 2020 and transfer flights to Gatwick.



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